For my birthday Chris planned a day out in the Scottish Borders. He thought of all my favourite things and made a day of them!
We explored two abbeys: Jedburgh and Dryburgh, as well as a visit to Hermitage Castle. We have visited both abbeys previously, but have never been to Hermitage Castle. Dryburgh Abbey is beautiful and peaceful with its setting on the River Tweed; we often stay at Dryburgh Abbey Hotel, adjacent to the Abbey. Dryburgh is the final resting place of Sir Walter Scott. Jedburgh Abbey, meanwhile, is in the heart of a busy, small town and is amazingly complete except for the roof.
The Wordsworths visited Jedburgh on the trip to Scotland in 1803, as guests of Sir Walter Scott. Dorothy in Recollections of a Tour Made in Scotland, AD 1803 wrote:
"The town of Jedburgh, in returning along the road, as it is seen through the gently winding narrow valley, looks exceedingly beautiful on its low eminence, surmounted by the conventual tower, which is arched over, at the summit, by light stone-work resembling a coronet; the effect at a distance is very graceful."
She clearly wasn't overly impressed with the Abbey, noting:
"the churchyard was full of graves, and exceedingly slovenly and dirty; one most indecent practice I observed: several women brought their linen to the flat-tombstones, and, having spread it upon them, began to batter as hard as they could with a wooden roller, a subsitute for a mangle".
Sir Walter Scott found the Wordsworth's lodgings in Jedburgh and William composed a poem The Matron Of Jedborough praising the virtues of their landlady.
Age! Twine thy brows with fresh spring flowers!
And call a train of laughing Hours;
And bid them dance, amd bid them sing;
And Thou, too, mingle in the Ring!
Take to thy heart a new delight;
If not, make merry in despite!
For there is one who scorns thy power.
But dance! for under Jedborough Tower
There liveth, in the prime of glee,
A woman, whose years are seventy three,
And she will dance and sing with thee.
As the final resting place of Sir Walter Scott, Dryburgh Abbey has inspired many poets. Charles Swain, commonly known as the Manchester Poet, composed a poem reflecting on the life and legacy of Sir Walter Scott. The poem captures the essence of Scott's contributions and the serene environment of his final resting place. An excerpt from the poem reads: "So there, in solemn solitude, In that sequester’d spot Lies mingling with its kindred clay The dust of Walter Scott!" This passage emphasises the tranquility and seclusion of Scott's burial site and its harmony with the surrounding landscape.
As well as ruins, the focal point of the day was Main Street Trading in St Boswell's, a beautifully curated bookshop and deli. We browsed for ages and made an eclectic selection of books. The deli always offers interesting food and homewares and we bought some delicious chocolates, cheese and other nibbles.
Our final destination was Hermitage Castle. We've never been before as it involves a long detour from the A7. But it was such a glorious evening that we decided to take the time to visit. Hermitage Castle is one of the most atmospheric and brooding medieval fortresses in Scotland—often described as “the guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain.” It's located in the remote Liddesdale Valley in the Scottish Borders, near the town of Newcastleton, not far from the English border.
Sir Walter Scott wrote Where Weeps the Birch about a knight lured to the Castle by the evil Lord Soulis, and drowned in the burn:
And here, beside the mountain flood,
The holy ground was by
Since first the Pictish race in blood,
The haunted pile did found
And restless stream its rocky base
Assails with ceaseless din;
And many a troubled spirit strays
The dungeons dark within.
Hermitage Castle is awe-inspiring, towering over the landscape; more like a fortress than a castle.
The day was rounded off with pizza and excellent coffee at Hunters Stables, in St Boswell's. This is one of our favourite Italian restaurants, run by a family of Italian Scots, who definitely know how to make pizza!
A very lovely and memorable birthday!