Anne Lister's Tour to the Lakes 1824

April's talk, as part of the Centre for National Parks and Protected Area's Cultural Landscape's series at the University of Cumbria, was Abi Palmer speaking about Anne Lister's 1824 Tour of the Lake District.

My knowledge of Anne Lister before the talk, was mostly derived from the BBC TV adaptation of her life: Gentleman Jack, although I suspected that the programme was slightly exaggerated and overstated. Abi's talk gave us a more rounded and insightful depiction of Lister. 

Half of the talk focused on Lister's life, lovers and influences; the second half of the talk, which I found the most interesting, explored the 1824 Tour of the Lake District which Anne Lister undertook with her Aunt. Anne Lister relied heavily on Jonathan Otley's Guide to the Lakes and the Hon Mrs Murray's Guide to the Lakes. Both of these guides were published in the early years of the 19th century and Hunter Davies considers Otley's Guide to be the first truly accurate mapping of the mountains.

Lister's Tour started in Kendal, where they visited the Castle. From Kendal they proceeded to Windermere, including Claife Heights Viewing Station and Belle Isle. Next, to Ambleside, where they stayed at the Salutation Inn, Lister was particularly complimentary about the breakfast! Then to Stock Ghyll Waterfall and Rydal Hall, where they viewed the falls from the Grot. At this point it does feel as if the party is keen to tick off the viewing stations of Thomas West! It seems that there was no attempt to visit the Wordsworths at Rydal Mount which does seem slightly perverse, given William Wordsworth's considerable fame at the time.

The next stages of the Tour took the Listers to Keswick. Of Helvellyn Anne Lister writes that it is very fine and "one of the finest drives in the world". She goes on to say that "Mrs Murray might be right"! Lister's Journal records "Helvellyn very fine on our right - the road lay along the foot of it - Thirlmere or Leathes Water though rather bare of wood, is very beautiful - the outline of the lake good - the promontories jutting into it picturesque".

Thence to Derwentwater where Lister was fascinated by the floating islands, and finally, the Bowder Stone to Ullswater. Of Patterdale Anne Lister wrote "such a tremendous carriage road I never beheld - that terrible hill, in the old road from Llangollen to Ruthin was not to be compared with it - never shall we forget Patterdale." I believe that the "old road" referred to here is the Horse Shoe Pass, which is still rather hair raising!

A very comprehensive and exacting Tour, taken very much in the style of the Picturesque tourist. And a very informative and enjoyable evening. I feel that I now know so much more about Anne Lister and we are looking forward to visiting Shibden Hall soon.