Third-Wave Coffee


We didn’t realise that we are supporters of the Third-wave Coffee Movement. We weren’t aware of the third wave - in fact we weren’t aware of the first two either.

Like most things, coffee is subject to fashions and cycles, or waves. The so-called First-wave ran from the early 19th century up to the 1960s. The emphasis was on increased convenience and consistency and it was during this period that instant coffee was introduced and became widespread. Its appeal was clearly based on ease of access and uniformity. Especially after the Second World War, instant coffee took off in the UK and started to overtake tea as the nation’s preferred hot drink.

But consumers were uninterested in the source of the coffee, preferring to rely on brand names to assure them of quality. They also seemed unaware that they were usually drinking coffee processed from cheaper, Robusta beans, with its characteristic bitter flavour.

The Second-wave, roughly from the 1970s to the late 1990s, was characterised by growing chains of coffee shops, led by Seattle-based Starbucks. Consumers were introduced to single origin coffee, brewed from more expensive Arabica beans. The majority of Second-wave coffee was Espresso-based, with hot water pressed through the coffee grounds to produce a strong, thick coffee to which could be added hot milk or water. Cappuccinos and Lattes became ubiquitous, with some critics describing them at ‘coffee milk shakes’.

However, as time went on, consumers sought out stronger and stronger coffee. The coffee chains responded by roasting their beans much darker, with the beans often becoming almost black and acquiring a thick, sticky coating. The coffee became more uniform and differences between coffee from, say, Kenya and Brazil were difficult to spot. It became a more expensive version of the 1960s.

This created a desire among some consumers for a Third-wave. They wanted to enjoy the subtle differences between coffees. One coffee tastes of apricot and chocolate, while another coffee tastes of pineapple and leather. Independent coffee shops opened across the country, emphasising their coffees’ origins, usually naming the farm from which it came, and including tasting notes. Coffee was now treated like fine wine.

To extract the full flavour of their coffee, consumers also use different brewing methods. The industrial espresso machine produces uniformly strong liquor and Third-wave consumers prefer a more nuanced experience. Use of French press, filter, V60 or other individual brewing methods, along with lightly roasted beans create a fragrant, subtle drink.

And this describes us. We never drink the instant coffee popularised by the First-wave, we’re not very keen on the high octane engine oil produced today by the Second-wave chains but we love the care and attention given by Third-wave coffee shops to make such beautiful drinks.